Scotland

19°C, sunny & with a decent breeze


I think I have fallen in love. This time, it’s with Scotland. what was so special- it was the days that cleared unexpectedly, the robin who came for breakfast, the same robin who landed on my shoulder; what about the golden eagle too? Talking to strangers on summits was relaxed, easy and rewarding. Wandering across Rannoch Moor in the mist and rain was sublimely atmospheric.
I can feel an unbreakable thread has been tied between me and Scotland. I’m going back, I don’t know how soon, but I will be. I left there the other day with a big feeling inside.

   Nirvana (Tom Waits)
Not much chance, completely cut loose from purpose,
he was a young man riding a bus through North Carolina on the way to somewhere.
And it began to snow.

And the bus stopped at a little cafe in the hills and the passengers entered.
And he sat at the counter with the others, and he ordered,
the food arrived.
And the meal was particularly good.
And the coffee.

The waitress was unlike the women he had known.

She was unaffected, and there was a natural humour which came from her.
And the fry cook said crazy things.
And the dishwasher in back laughed a good clean pleasant laugh.

And the young man watched the snow through the window.

And he wanted to stay in that cafe forever.

The curious feeling swam through him that everything was beautiful there.

And it would always stay beautiful there.

And then the bus driver told the passengers that it was time to board.

And the young man thought: "I’ll just stay here, I’ll just stay here."
And then he rose and he followed the others into the bus.

He found his seat and looked at the cafe through the window.

And then the bus moved off, down a curve,
downward, out of the hills.

And the young man looked straight forward.

And he heard the other passengers speaking of other things,

or they were reading or trying to sleep.

And they hadn’t noticed the magic.

And the young man put his head to one side,
closed his eyes, and pretended to sleep.

There was nothing else to do,
just to listen to the sound of the engine,

and the sound of the tires
in the snow 

©2006 Tom Waits

That just about covers the feeling left by the whole trip.

Look here for some photos: Flickr

Nantlle & hafn

  & hafn14°C, light cloud


Returned from Nantlle, Snowdonia yesterday. Not as tired as I usually am on getting back. this trip was interrupted by rain so I did fewer walks. The ones I did do were on routes selected for the lower summits because cloudbase was so low. I got some decent photos though and found a very likeable site in Nantlle.

Hafn is the welsh word for those gulleys on mountain ridges that allow for plunging views downwards, in this picture- looking down on rising cloud.

What’s the matter with you?

24°C, sun. Cycle 74 miles


Similar distance to last week’s ride, same destination, but today felt far easier. Funny how exercise works out like that.
This green and pleasant land is turning yellow (except my lawn). I credit the daily bowl of washing up water for that- and the length of the grasses.

muggy

27°C, muggy & large spots of rain after a hot week.


Back from camping. Had to get away after a week worth escaping from. Mountains are such a good way to clean out such feelings.

Photo taken just after I’d swam in there. Climbing it hot work on days like this, going up is hottest. At the summit, I found a nice soft heathery patch between rocks and slept for an hour. Purple is the season- purple foxgloves in big munches; purple flowers on some heather and towering thistle with purple heads just opening. Give them another week.

The Nun on the rock

24°C, hot, getting close & clouds building.


Today: I climbed a 2,000ft mountain in the Aran range, at at the top was a nun sitting on a rock. There she was, dressed in walking boots and a full habit – all pale blue and eating her packed lunch; making tea with a camper’s stove. I invited myself a seat next to her and ate my lunch too. We swapped life stories, she told me about her old dog and made a fuss of mine. There was a pond near by and the nun encouraged us to wade in and cool off my dog (who was obviously very hot in her thick coat). Out of her rucksack, she pulled a fold-open aluminium wind-break to shelter her meths burner; that would ensure a decent hot cup of tea. After a paddle in the pond, we chatted some more and then parted in opposite directions. It didn’t take long to get the the summit where I looked back to see her steadily walking away back to her life.

Back from Moelwynnions

Cold & windy, but lots of sun


The Moelwyns And Yr Widdfa.

Saturday
: wandered about the Moelwynnions, visiting ponds & small lakes on the hills south of Snowdon. The Rain threatened but didn’t carry it out until I was most of the way down. Then we walked through a dense forest which was good shelter.
Sunday: From Llyn Gwynant towards Pen-y-pass (but cut north to the Moner’s track & make Snowdon. It was horrible, I have never seen it so crowded. We pushed through the masses and found a quieter place on the Rhyd Ddu path. Met some nice people on that route, who I caught up with again after climbing Yr Aran. Beautiful day but cold in the strong wind-chill.
Today ( Monday): Drove home through the Arenigs, I’d love to camp there next time. Endless rolling grasslands which should offer some peace and solitude. There are few official campsites there.
There is another way.


This needs some research. Marina Tsvetaeva:
[388]
 

I bring to my lips this bitter herb—
the leaves’ gooey cursing, the sticky oath
of our violating, perjuring earth:
mother of snowdrops, of maples and oaks.
 
Look how I’m buttressed and blinded,
subordinated and resigned to the roots;
Isn’t it overwhelming and wonderful
for one’s sore eyes in the thundering park
 
where the frogs, like droplets of mercury,
linking up their voices in a single sphere
transform the fragile reeds into branches,
the steam-like mist into a milky mirage.
 
Voronezh, 30 April 1937

Rhinog and Gliderau

6-13°C, very fine, clear skies later.


Been on holiday: Rosie and I have been hill walking in the Rhinog and Gliderau ranges in Snowdonia for just over a week. Here is a quick summary:
Monday: tour round a bit & find a campsite. Chose one near the sea for warmer nights. It was fiercely windy though. The tent held but was noisy so I moved inland.
Tuesday & Wednesday: Camp in Cwm Buchan.Heavy rain first afternoon & night, but Wednesday was clear & drying so I wandered the Rhinogs all day. Saw not even a human footprint until 5pm.

Thursday: rest day, stayed at a relative’s bungalow on the coast. Felt very tired from 2 long walks. Very warm day in shorts.
Saturday & Sunday: moved to Ogwen valley in the shadow of Tryfan. I have yet to climb that mountain- it’s too rough to take Rosie so I intend to go for a weekend purely to make that summit. Camp wasn’t too busy. Took a very long walk along the Gliderau all the way to Elidir Fach, the western-most 3,000 footer.11 hours and 16 miles later I got back at sunset. A great route suggested by the mountain warden at Llyn Ogwen.

(Above; Tryfan, below- Elidir Fach)

Monday: felt a real heart-wrenching tear on driving away so decided to stay another night. Made camp at a National Trust site at the base of Snowdon’s Watkins path. This was a bit of a risk because the car battery failed in the morning. The farmer helped me jump-start it, huge relief.
this has been a very fine week, the best Easter I can remember- every bit as good as a summer holiday.


Vegetation was still brown, grasses yellow like a September after a long hot summer. The freedom to wander about Wales with a tent and dog is wonderful, nothing went wrong, and if it did it just becomes a problem to solve. There is no responsibility so therefore no guilt. Well, okay, there was a bit because Rosie got cold in the tent a few nights until I worked out the best way to keep her warm. The most effective move was to wrap her in my spare sleeping bag.
The mosses and lichens appear to be doing well, must learn the names of more of them.Coming home wasn’t too bad, I was met by fresh sunshine and plants in bloom.
Life is good.

The Filthy English

9°C, enough sun but strong northerly wind.


England is a dirty place: With the vegetation at its annual lowest point right now, you can easily see through sparse hedgerows, grassy banks and ditches, and in all of it; on every lane, however far from towns, is rubbish. At its thinnest, you only see beer cans and McDonald’s wrappers every yard or so. I suppose, being generous, that some must be wind-blown litter, perhaps blown from uncapped bins. Riding along you can see some lanes have extra gatherings in places where there is some shelter- ditches, or maybe under a big tree. But, in openings, such as gateways, there can sometimes be seen a television set here, a flat-pack and old mattress there. Fly tipping. What is the motive for dumping this stuff- it’s not money: the car is loaded with junk, the council tip is paid-for in advance and the effort to drive to a gateway is the same as driving to a tip. So, it’s not laziness then, but what is it? Why do it?

I can see I need to work on commas in that passage.

At last; a decent, satisfying ride. The last ten felt like I was on the 100th mile ( and yes I do know what that feels like). took some photos on the phone, but can’t unload them for a few days yet. You’ll have to just wait.
Another long day, this one started at 5am.

Dry ice

-2 -+8, clear blue, dead calm


Slow journey to work today, it was very dry so I decided to ride. There were a few stretches where I had to get off and run it where the ice was sprayed over the road from broken manhole covers.