Descend from Yr Aran.

16°C, strong W, clouds from 600m.
Be warm and comfortable, those bits I got right. What spoilt my night’s sleep was the roar from the wind. At fairly regular intervals, the gusts would shake and whip the tarp. Awake at midnight, I pondered over- we’re a month away from mid-summer and it’s surprising how long light lingers, there was still a faint milky glow at midnight.
By morning, the weather was the same, so decamp.
The route: head west along the ridge and find am unnamed reentrant that forms a valley  through complex moraines. Then ago to pass a disused quarry and mine. The only problem here was finding a wall crossing; the tall stone wall followed contours regardless of how steep. The walls were very tall, and not a flaw, gate or stile was to be seen.
In the end, I’m sorry to say, I climbed over. I chose a shorter section with a smaller drop on the other side. It worked, without even a pebble dislodged.

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The quarry offered a good place to filter water and quench my thirst.
These places can be horrifying, especially those mine entrances. This one was just as ominous as any, dark into its endless throat. Inside was flooded from torrents dripping from above. There must be all posts of life forms in there, but it’s no place for human. Out of the derelict buildings was an easy path snaking towards Beddgelert, visible in the valley.
By the time I got to the bottom and the lake itself, my energy faded. Later I decided that on this trip, I hadn’t taken enough food.
Thoughts of a food stop at the excellent Caffi Gwynant drove me on.
Then I got there, the first thing that I noticed was the closed sign.

In conclusion: next time, take more food and ear plugs.

Nant Gwynant

upto 21°C, still & no cloud

Just got back. It was great, but I’ve brought a cold with me. It’s been strange, it came on tentatively on the drive there. But it held back for quite a few days, drawing my strength in the background while I climbed mountains. Now I’m all bunged up and have gone to bed with a roll of tissue paper. No, Wait! that sounds terrible.

Another interesting physical process can be noticed when falling asleep. As you drift away in a campsite, sometimes you snap back. When you do, the first thing that snaps back into focus is the sound of the river (on the opposite edge of the camp). It jumps into your consciousness almost as if someone has thrown a switch. This can happen repeatedly until you finally do fall asleep.

Anyway, where have I been?

  1. Rhinogs: walked up Rhinog Fawr, clear & cold.
  2. Nant Gwynant, Yr Aran (the summit cleared, much to my surprise)
  3. Nant Gwynant: Climbed Y Llewedd (on the Snowdon horseshoe)
  4. Nant Gwynant: Moel Siabod– near Capel Curig. A fine mountain with an ice scarred east face hidden by soft grassy slopes to the North & west.

Yr Wyddfa, Carneddeau & Rhinoggs

14-19°C, Sunburn, rain, fog & gales


Sunday, Yr Wyddfa: (Mt Snowdon, 1085m) and Yr Aran (745m): Got up when I woke (5am), then drove to The western slopes of Mt Snowdon. Started the climb at 10.30. Parked at Ryd Ddu and took the route up to Yr Aran. Pure blue skies and light winds. This day turned into a 10 hour hike.I came down from Yr Aran to the Watkin path and then climbed Snowdon. The Summit was too crowded to stay more than a few minutes, so then headed down the Snowdon Ranger track. After the drive to Wales, this was an additional 10 hour hike, I slept well that night after hotel troubles were solved.
So now I have done all of the major ascent routes of Snowdon. Those remaining are proper scrambles, but I can’t take Rosie on terrain like those.

Monday: Southern Carneddeau: A day of 3 summits> Penyr Ole Wen (978m), along the ridge to Carnedd Dafyd (1044m)> Carnedd Llewellyn (1064m)
This was largely straight-forward, especially after I met a couple of teachers from Tamworth who were experts on that route. The panorama at the top was …. <insert flowery words here>.
Near the rockwalls  of Craig Yr Isfa was a really tricky descent. Getting Rosie down here was interesting. I made a mental note to get her a harness, the sort you can lift a dog with. Perhaps a rope too; just in case the worst happens and we get stuck. Agile though she is, her claws face backwards so are not so great when facing a descending slope . I went ahead, turned and braced with arms apart to let her slide into my grasp. That’s real trust.
Tuesday, a day on the beach at Harlech & Llandanwg with Jo. A little chilly, but kept warm with cups of tea and hilarious banter. We saw Rosie watching the local Gwlffreandded; she’s obsessed!
Wednesday: Rhinogg Hills. A wet stormy day with strong westerly winds. Took the Roman steps route up from Cwm Bychan. As we got into the clouds, the rain stopped and visibility remained at about 30 meters. The steps were more a cascade of small waterfalls; I pictured Roman centurians in their Jesus-sandals. The stones were reasonably regular, smooth and rather slimy in places. Grip was poor. Rosie saw me fall once and came over concerned and licked my face. The perfect travelling companion; she makes other dogs look rubbish.
Finding lakes along the route as they slowly materialised out of the mist was a very impressive moment each time. You have to work out your position on the map with a compass direction matched against the curve of the lake-side. The water rippled softly below the grainy clouds that moved besides and through us. Both air and water had the same silvery colour so coming across lakewater each time was a shock. Unexpected and reassuring- the map reading was working. We then sloshed our way though rocks and black marshy peaty land. Stepping on innocuous patches of sodden grass often plunged your foot into flowing clean water. Another great day.

 I wish I could have stayed another few days, there is so much more to do and see. In the meantime, I am going to look seriously into kitting out with camping gear. Late hotel breakfasts were a bind, sometimes I didn’t finish eating until 9. I wake at six.