Cala Ciuró, a remote beach in Mallorca.

28°C, light NE, zero cloud.

Es Cala

I set off in the afternoon with 3 litres of water and no clear idea of a destination. A track peels off the road to Formentor so I took it. The path was indistinct and very uneven. Rocks here are sharp broken limestone and in places hidden by coarse grass. It led to a dried up stream and then onto this delightful little pebbly beach.

When I got there, there was a group of muscle men about to leave so I had the place to myself. Then a lovely young french couple from Brittany arrived by the same route as mine. She asked me about the route as they had no map – they’d followed me down.

Then they changed to swim. Such a good idea so I did the same. What an enchanted beautiful place.

NCS: Scrapped.

I thought this would come. The National Citizenship Scheme was set up by PM Cameron in 2011. It has been scaled down over the last five years with the course shortening and centres closing. It has just been announced that the scheme is terminated from the start of the next financial year (April 2025).

That leaves me without a summer job for next August.

DofE 21: Cannock Chase, (Silver practice).

Polish mushroom pickers

Three days, rain then sun.

Day 1, mainly route planning under cover but. We did a walk first before the rain arrived. I got back just in time. The biggest problem arose in the rain. The outside classroom had a decent cover but was open at the sides. The wind blew rain over our maps and pens. Writing route cards was impossible.

Day 2: A day of tricky navigation through the forest.

Day 3, I was up early, then set off for a walk before breakfast into the dark. It wasn’t really dark with all the light pollution from Stafford, Rugeley and Cannock. I could switch off the head torch for some time.

GR20: The reckoning

The expedition has left a legacy for me. In things like sleep habits. The best one is that I lost at least a stone in weight. That’s dead weight I put on after having COVID.

Tendonitis: this came on during the last few days. It doesn’t affect cycling so it may not actually be tendonitis but bursitis (supporting ligaments around the heel). I know from previously having it that healing takes a very long time, probably over a year. Currently I’m I’m often limping. This has been my concern as I was just getting into running.

Sleep habits: waking for long periods in the night.

Fitness: this is the best one, I’m on full form. Cycling is great, speedy and much fun. I had specific muscular strains during the trip. Two I remember most – around my hip during days 4 to 6, and between shoulders during the middle week. The latter was most noticeable on descents, maybe from the heavy pack and looking down for footing at the same time.

D12, GR20 (stage 16): Paliri to Conca (THE FINISH)

Now in the routine. Wake by 5, pack the bag and roll up the tent. Fill water and fix breakfast (macaroni cheese from a dried packet).

All morning, watched over by the eye in the cliff.

Sunrise on the last stage.

Overall, this was a long steady descent. There were some highlights, a nice Boccu, ponds to swim in. But generally, with lowering altitude came higher temperatures.

The best bit was the rock pools on the river. Cascade de Punta Pinzuta. This was the only time I actually swam in a river on the Vignt.

Right at the end, there’s a spring (source) under shady trees. It was most refreshing, especially as there was a German couple doing the same thing. They went ahead and I stopped for another drink and to pee. Doing that, I disturbed a grass snake.

D11, GR20 (stage 15b): Bavella village to Paliri (the short one).

I need a rest day but the schedule doesn’t allow. Instead, I’ll take a short day. This is less than three hours. Paliri is a mountain refuge with fine views of the crags and sea.

As I was early, I got one of the best pitches nestled between rocks. Clothes were washed and I bought more fabulous cheese.

Paliri just after sunrise.

D10 , GR20 (stage 15): Asinau to Bavella

A long slog through the forest low route. There were constant obstacles like fallen trees and streams to negotiate. I walked with the Czech women to begin with but they were faster and wanted the high variant route. There were Robles of thunder and long spells of light rain, so I decided against that.

I was so desperately tired on getting to the village. The last bit was a steep climb and some light scrambling , which I wasn’t in the mood for. Soon, on the col, there were signs of civilization, signposts and maintained land. I padded onto the road and looked for anywhere open.

There was a ‘refuge’, more a restaurant really. So I walked up and asked some smokers whether they spoke English. One guy did , really well. He offered a dorm, a meal and breakfast for €42. Amazing, I was delighted and relieved. The food portion was large as was was my appetite. I was given a starter, aain and a cheese board to finish (much of which became my picnic for tomorrow).

Sunset from the refuge in Bavalla.

D9, GR20 (stage 14): Croci to Refuge d’Asinau

A nice, grassy climb to the Bocca in fine conditions. This is another short route of less than 4 hours.

Bocca d’Asinau

The descent is the challenge today. It’s reputed to be one of the toughest on the 20. It poses real problems once I lost the markers.

Bocca du Stazzinara,

I zigzagged and returned from dead ends. There were some very tricky down-scrambles and I got stuck on alder woods. Eventually, there was cow dung. Then another, so I followed them if cattle can get to this part, they can get out. Before long, a red/white marker! Phew.