Alport Castles

7°C, grey with a cold N breeze.

https://www.mapmyride.com/workout/3228261259

Hiking with some old friends in the Dark Peak area of the Pennines.

This was a day and route of variety: moorland, forest, ridge and a few hours of night walking. Firstly, we headed into Alport Moor and then descended amongst the strangest landforms, a mixture of landslips, landslides and what looks like gorges. It’s a real puzzle trying to unpick what happened to this terraine.

The descent from here took us back to rural farmland and into darkness. The last leg was nearly 2 hours of night walking. We had a good system running here which I shall pass onto kids. I led in front route finding on the ground and Carl followed with the map in hand. This works better than me holding the map because holding it up in the head-torch. destroys your night vision

Here we are, the traditional Blair Witch shot on a night walk.

In all, this qualifies as a Quality Hillwalking Day, a valid entry onto the Mountain Training logbook. That makes 150 in my book.

DofE 16.0

15°C falling to 0°C under clear sky.

Gold Qualifying expedition, Brecon Beacons. Long drive in fine conditions, rolling mist filled some fields near the coast. That reminded me of some of the early season trips this year. In in the tent now as the air rapidly approaches freezing. It’s going to be a cold one! I met my two groups earlier and they seem lovely.

DofE 16.1 Friday: sorting out a lad who woke feeling and looking rather ill took so much time this morning. He was so pale, he looked almost green. I was ready to pull him out and the other staff agreed. The school wanted to try warming him up and persuade some food into him. Their approach turned out to be right. After the warm minibus ride to the start point, they set the group towards an old railway line. My plan was to drive to a point half way, walk in and intercept the trail on foot. The valley held a temperature inversion, fog pooled in the bottom like a sheepskin rug. It was very dense once you descend into it, cold too. It did burn off quickly, a photo opportunity missed, I can’t stop when I’m working. It took too long to decide on a parking spot. This area has a terrible reputation for car break-ins.

I got up there and saw no groups. Even walking a few km SW revealed nobody. That’s good really because he must be okay. So, off to the next checkpoint after walking for about 4km.

In the evening we inevitably cooked in the dark, no problem with that. The nearby woods attracted the most tawny owls I have ever hear in one go, at least five. There was a barn owl calling in the valley too. Another call in the mix I didn’t recognise, the night sky is clear too.

DofE 16.2: Fan-y-Big and Cribyn.

Drove round to the finishing campsite and walked up to the Bwlch next to Fan-y-big. One of my groups was there and were planning an addition to their route because they wouldn’t be out long enough. I suggested more time spent on their aim. Eventually they decided on the path NW of Cribyn. It’s a narrow ledge which should be spectacular.

Then I went up the summit to find my other group. They were visible from the Bwlch, clearly making navigation decisions so I guessed where they’d be. Sure enough, they were relaxing on the summit.

From here, I went to the summit of Cribyn, not because I needed, to just to bag it. From there to the bwlch the other side so i could re-trace the route my group 2 had taken an hour earlier. There was damage from a landslide half way along.I hoped the gold group were okay. If they weren’t, I’d find them. I didn’t.

DofE 16.3: the alarm it set for 05.40 to give time to organise groups and myself. We’re relocating, so the tent has to come down. However, above blazed the stars in Orion, Gemini and Auriga. Before dawn, before breakfast, I gazed through binoculars. This was a chance to see clearly without light pollution. Sirius and all of Canis Major was visible down to the horizon. I’ve never seen it like that before. Twilight would soon show.

Back up Cribyn. Leaving the tent to dry, I set off after 3 groups who had started. The other staff reassured me that it’s okay to overtake them to man the summit.

Here they come.

Here was another spectacular day, crystal clear and deep blue above, from the vantage point, the very top of Sugar Loaf mountain can be seen in the distant east. From here, I watched the two groups climb the north ridge. They were so thrilled to get to the top; many selfies were taken.

DofE 16.4: last day, a simple walk up the Taff valley. Weather was cool but bright and dry; good for us then. Debrief would be 2km from the finish to prevent a rush to board the coach. Debrief is payback, I know I get money for this job but feedback from the kids is a kind of pay. They were lovely too, grateful and charming. I got a sense that they will genuinely develop a love for the hills, their kit will be used again.

DofE 14: Yorkshire Dales.

14°C, rain and gales. Gusts up to 40mph.

14.0 Arrived about 11.30am for a Gold Qualifying expedition. The minibusses wouldn’t arrive for at least 2 hours so I went up Whenside for the fun of it. People were up there half way through the Yorkshire 3 Peaks challenge. The group at this summit were in good spirits and all stopped for a cigarette. Did they do this on each summit?

Afterwards, we spent the afternoon organising the kids and routes. I did not sleep well. Perhaps I should have stayed the night in my tent.

(Formerly) hurricane Helene struck us in the night. This morning the full force revealed itself further. Now it’s known as Storm Ali.

14.1 Tuesday: I’m managing 2 groups and each had a decent ascent onto Whernside (a 736m English mountain). The gales built up rapidly over the hours. I walked north from the Ribbleside Viaduct. The gusts grew fierce and the showers heavier. Group 1 sounds distressed on the ridge because of the wind. Pete, our asessor waited on the summit and between us, we saw both groups. All of them were quite dispondant, soaked and battered by blasts. I let them off the final summit (Blea Moor). They’re delightful kids and deserve encouragement.

14.2: Wednesday and a big storm comes. They’ve named it now: ‘Ali’. I can see it rolling in the other side of the valley, it will be here in 15mins. Trees here are thrashing like that scene in Harry Potter. 10 minutes sunshine remain while the car rocks side to side.

First rain started at 11.19am. Eventualy, both groups passed through. Group A had a pretty miserable lunchbreak in the woods during heavy rain. The others arrived in a brief sunny spell. The wind roared and we staggered drunkenly. Across the road, Open Access land flanks of Ingleborough. This is a lenghy sea of grass with shakeholes everywhere. I took off to Clapham to backtrack from the east. The climb up from “A Pennine Jouney” was fabulous. It’s a less well trodden route which is worth a trip. The gorge tapers to a narrow funnel with overhanging black cliffs and an ominous dark cave on the left.

I spent some hours on the traverse. I passed one shakehole with a tent in it, another had scrap metal. The land is pockmarked like an ancient battlefield. All the time, the rain drove on, and visibility was poor. Navigation was fine but I missed my colleague in the downpour.eventually, I dropped down via Maybury in failing light. One group was still on the moors he said. We met up hoping to walk up from Clapham. Neither of us could really understand why they were so slow. One factor is their late start time, they begain walking at 08.30. 07.30 would be a more reasonable beginning.

Finally, the rest of our staff team arrived in the minibus to rescue the four girls and with plans to get pub food for us. Today is a late one.

14.3 the wind has dropped but heavy rain is due this afternoon. routes are low level giving us time to recover.

The kids are getting better. They’re snacking more which maintains a more constant energy level. They need to drink more and start the day earlier. Last year, groups set off at 7am. If they prepare bags in the evening, and organise the stuff in tents, then the morning will happen more smoothly. There is more to expeditions than walking and pitching tents.

14.4: Pen-y-Ghent. (last day). Another storm arrives today; the morning starts chilly at 5°C and a strenghtening breeze. By lunch, heavy showers and gale force gusts to 40mph, more at height. My job was to man the checkpoint on the summit. On reaching the shoulder, before the scramble section, the wind ran full force over the pass.

The shelter at the top is just like the one at the top of Whernside, two semi-circles with seats to hide from the blast.

Two old guys arrived soon after me and we had a nice natter. Each carried big flasks of tea which from which they gave me cups. Warm tea was very welcome. To keep warm, I walked the ridge to looking for reception, or my groups. The groups came first but on the windward side of the wall. My message to suggest the downwind side never got through. Oh well, they were in good sprits even after the hailstorm.

Group Two arrived not long after, cold, wet but also contented. It was their last day, a fact that kept them going. Thats quite a lift from Tuesday when they asked about quitting. Each day, they made incremental improvements that made the harsh conditions bearable. This week is the worst DofE weather we have ever had: two named storms and yellow weather warnings.

Debrief was great in the storm shelter and all participants were obviously relieved and quite pleased with themselves.

This was a poignant time for me too. I’ve led these groups through bronze, silver and now- Gold. They even discussed which royal they’d like to receive their presentation from.

For me, I’m satisfied that I could spend tbe day on a mountain in harsh conditions and remain comfortable.

14/ Man verses Lakes: marshalling.

20°C, white cloud.

14.1: A late start means a late finish just as night is falling. It’s the problem with the tides determinig the start time for this race. The first stage was over the sands at Silverdale to Grange Over Sands where we all were briefed. The event was a marathon called Man Verses Lakes.

It’s quite differet working with adults, I’m used to children with 13 DofE trips this season. Most of the racers were grateful for my words of encouragement and jelly-babies. I gave them factual information, height to the top, remaining distance and the like.

14:2 eating breakfast, shall I climb Old Man Of Coniston? The cloud base is quite low and there has been soft drizzle overnight; but on the other hand, I have come all this way.

DofE 12: Brecon Beacons.

24°C, sunny with fair clouds, light breeze.

Back to the Beacons, with different groups this time; however, most I’ve met or taught before. Yes, it’s my old school DofE again. My job was to drive the Gold groups to their start location so they can walk to their first campsite in llanthony Priory.

Gold_2018QMHS

12.0: Monday, The problems came fairly soon.. We were instructed to drop them off and then drive to the staff campsite; later, we would checkpoint the groups. A small problem pointed to a larger problem with this scheme. The idea of Practice is to practice the training and simulate the qualifying expedition. But their training was a year ago so they were practising a skill-set they had every reason to be rusty with. Instead of driving to the staff camp, I went to the gold’s first checkpoint it was only 2.8 km away over a ridge. Neither group showed up, not even after 2 1/2 hours. Something was wrong and I had no way to contact them, nor with base. No phone signal or shortwave radio reception in this valley. My anxiety level shot up; if something happened, it would be me that has to explain my decisions to the judge.

I decided to drive off and find better reception. I caught Group 1 over the radio who could relay messages to Group A over the ridge. Bothgroups had made mistakes in woodland. They’ve done this before. Remember when this group needed rescuing in the dark? Here they were again, going the wrong way in woodland, again.

I decided to drive back to base camp since I was out solo and worried. Was I carrying paperwork that the Silver groups needed etcetera. Going back felt wrong too, my instinct said that I can leave them but should have contact every two hours. I’ve brought 8 teenage girls well over 100 miles from their school and dropped them in a field unfamiliar to them. What if something happened? I tried the radio once more, then Aneeka’s voice! She gave a location, and she could relay messages from the other group on the hill that I could not directly hear. Contact!

Relieved but not satisfied, I drove away to base and the other staff. I raised my concerns around the theme that our duty of care is the same as for year 9s’. As a staff decision, my plan won the debate…

12.2 Tuesday: . So Today, I walked most of their stage to teach navigation to the higher Gold level carrying a list of skills to try out. My total walk time was just shy of 11 hours including the return walk. We covered many techniques, pacing, bearings, and others. At the north end, the ridges opened into a plateau so I left the groups at a trig point there to make their descents. One group took longer because their nav. decision required more reading of the contours. The other group chickened-out of cutting the corner over grassland, “what if we get lost?”. They seen nervous about walking on the compass. Eventually, they went from the trig-point.

Here, the second part of my day started. I picked one group’s route and followed it back to the minibus. I did discover some tricky navigation points such as woodland and a path that started in dense bracken. In an ideal world, we leaders would walk the kids’ routes beforehand. Thus, it turned into A Long Day; I got back to the bus at 21.15.

Look at that, 11,400 calories in one walk, one day. I didn’t even feel that tired. That means it was mostly fat burning rather than sugars.

Sitting in the grass were the Silver practice groups, they were in low spirits and looking rather shocked.. Exhaustion, blisters and excessive distance brought on by gross errors in nav.. Their mistakes had added 5km to their walk. Their instructor, in despair, moved them back in the minibus to resume the route on a correct course only to see them wander off in error again. What’s going on.

12.3, Wednesday, today’s route over the mountain meant there were fewer places to set up checkpoints. Still, I want contact every 2 hours, though a position fix by text will do. I didn’t get such a fix for over 4 restless hours. Faint female voices did echo around the valley in the humid, still air. Then the radio crackled and though unintelligible at first, the tone was enough to make voices recognisable.

I have a particular affinity with these groups; it was they who needed rescuing on Gradbach Woods a few years ago when they became benighted. I’ve posted about that day here years ago. Eventually, my colleague radioed to say they arrived at the minibus while I was patrolling the hill opposite looking for them. Actually, they were in good spirits, the new girl E in particular had taken control and pushed them on. What a fabulous kid, she had the most horrific looking blister but determination enough to press on regardless and kept spirits up amongst the others.

12.4, last day, a Thursday. Still roaring hot, we could see fires on one of the mountains. Today’s routes take them along hills to the south, limestone country. Qualifying exped will be in the Yorkshire Dales. Here is some taster of the ground they will encounter up north. Soldiers were on manouvers which was funny when one ran out in the road by us, looked at a footlath sign and ran away again. He carried a rifle daubed with fluorescent orange. It was the way he ran that looked comical.

DofE 11.0: Cotswold hills.

28°C, no wind and the prospect of 30° tomorrow, close feeling too.

Working for a provider that’s new to me: BXM. It’s not too far to drive here, but for the first part of the M5 which was very slow..

11.1: day one, quite a lot to get used to but the people are excellent. They’re friendly and enthusiastic, I hope to make a good impression. The kids seem young but they’re pleasent enough. I have two groups to manage but this time we chose them by the similarity of their routes and we have two groups each to manage. The top temperature today is very high, probably 30°C.

11.2: My groups got up at a reasonable reasonable time despite refusing to last evening.

The day went well and grew hot. Tarmac melted in places. Our response is to encourage groups to slow down, we aimed for 2kph. And we offered water at every opportunity.

Look at these! They’re thistles, not a variety seen us north.

DofE 10.0: Edale.

Or “I need to use the trowel”

16°C, cloudless and still.

Arrived in Edale for a Gold Practice expedition. I’ve been here a few times before with QM School. Sunset is late so putting up the tent was easy. This should be fun as long as the group I get works well. At least I know the terrain.

10.1: dawn was chilly, only 9°C inside. The temperature built rapidly through hte morning. Tops were about 25°C, but it felt far hotter in direct sun. The sun is burning and dry.

Introduced to my group in Castleton car park. After the usual bag adjustments and weigh in, we set off. They immediately went the wrong way down the high street. This is a problem when dumped in a car-park after a log drive, it’s disorientating. Then we set off with the group in front. Eventually, another mistake led us to a farm which was stopped by a labourer. Secondly, as we back tracked, a woman approached who seemed quite exasperated. They get this all the time. If I get time, I will go back and figure out what went wrong.

The rest of the day was a struggle against the heat. It scorched our skin and drwgged in our throats. That was why we decided to descend on a shortened route. Oh, and one of the girls was feeling ill. At the lunch stop, she mentioned that she needed a poo. I took the opportunity to explain where and when and a bit about the use of a trowel. I bought it originally because it has a funny name:”iPood!”.

We took a break after Lord’s Seat and took votes on the remaining route. Eventually, an uncomfortable looking girl asked for my trowel and went off with it behind a wall.

10.2: Kinder Scout: load up the pack with 7.5 litres of water and head up onto the Kinder plateau. My group have a long day in the heat. Much longer than yesterday but at least the wind is stronger to cool us down. I walked for 4 hours without a stop before I found them. They were sitting, contentedly at the furthest west point of their trip. I had walked about 12km to find them. Okay, so I did stop for a few photos and a search with the binoculars.

So far so good. They were all in good spirits but thirsty. The 5 litre tank was enough, it left 2 litres for me. The plan was to then go south east to a spring to collect more for filtering. There was not a drop anywhere, not on the plateau, nor on the gulleys. I’ve never seen Kinder like this. The streams were sandy trails, bone dry.

Eventually, I met up with another instructor who had plenty left in his talk. I was despitately thirsty by then. 3 hours without water in this heat. The sun remained fierce, not a cloud all day.

Padding along the farmland the girls pointed out a sheep stuck in a wire fence. One of the breed which have coiled up helix horns. She had her left horn caught in the bottom wire, probably while reaching for the best grass shoots. So without thinking, I took off my pack and crouched down. She didn’t panic but I was worried because the horn was snarp and her neck strong. Eventuall, pushing the wire and pulling the horn did it. She didn’t seem to realise at first but then she backed out to the relief of two lambs with her. My good deed for the day.

A very satisfying day, especially once I’d quenched my raging thirst.

10.3. Cooler start with some clouds.

My group have a funny figure-8 route but it’s easy to checkpoint. On close inspection, it’s looks fine. I met them four times over the 9 hour walk. The last one, they were so tired, some tears in fact. They were lovely on debriefing which included our goodbyes. I gave them baby-belle cheese rounds. That choice came up because they agreed that they took toomuch sweet food. Some were stuck for choice of suitable savoury food. I will look into this so I can give a better answer next time. They liked the mushroom pate I had in a tube.

Gold, day 4, completion.

12°C, sunny but rain at the end
A day to wait, cleanup and packing the minibuses carried on against a background of sun and a cloud inversion.​

A cold front drew over us as the day finished bringing rain, heavy rain. We waited. Then, Group B arrived, They finished first! Happy, relieved, tired and very smelly. They wanted chips. At 4pm, chip shops haven’t opened but I drove off in search, and found. Group A completed just before our return and by the end of the hour all groups were in. I was beaming contented grins at them and heaped congratulations upon them all. A fine end to the year’s expedition season.

The drive back is normally a bit of a come-down. Unlike last year, they didn’t fall asleep in the bus, they discussed the week. They recalled the day that things ‘sort of clicked’. It was Wednesday, the day they faced camping up on the moors that did it. I felt the huge, warm glow of job satisfaction from this.

there is a lesson to learn from an experience like this. It’s wider in scope then the expedition, navigation and all those campcraft skills. It is about the way we think when faced with problems. Finding blame has it’s place but certainly not within an ongoing situation. Blaming prevents clear prioritisation and adopting a working solution. That’s the posh was of saying that blame is pointless. Blame is a feature of our society, heads will roll, somebody is culpable and the buck has to stop; and so on. Maybe, but first, the problem has to be solved.

Gold, day 3

12°C, rain of the drizzly variety. Sun later.
Our assessor gave them a low level route which was mostly the Trans Pennine Trail. The tops were shrouded in hill fog and rain fell heavily at times. We decided to walk the reverse route to meet them.

This section of the Trans Pennine Trail (TPT) runs on a disused railway. The tracks are long gone rather like the Tissington Trail. Then, the railway runs through a tunnel below the Moors. The opening of the tunnel is blocked by a gate and electric fences. It’s drafty but sheltered from the rain. We sat here and ate lunch while I got the stove out for a warm brew.
As it worked out, we saw both groups about half way and only separated by half an hour. Our next idea was to head across the moorland to make a walk of it. We turned north into classic Hill and Moorland territory.TPT-vent
Just visible on top of this ventilation shaft is a walking boot. I have no idea how long it’s been there or who threw it. From here a track heads south west passed some pillars. the pillars appear to be some kind of mount for theodolites. I presume a system was set up to dig the shafts in the days before laser measurements were first used.

Anyway, our own track amounted to 5 hours 40 minutes and brightened up into the afternoon to sunshine.

Gold, day 2

12°C, some sun, some drizzle.

Second day for my Gold groups, and it’s quite a long one. One had to be withdrawn by the first checkpoint, she had a knee injury. I tried lending a neoprene support but it didn’t work.
The rest rest her group tried to pick up the pace but still took 2 hours reach the second checkpoint. Not very encouraging.
They arrived energised but worried about failing. Picking them up in the minibus would certainly mean a fail. I really didn’t want to pick them up as much as they didn’t (if you get what I mean). So I sat them down at talked through their options. Their next checkpoint is high up on the moors and the descent over the other side would lead them to their planned camp. A few of them vocalised very unhelpful thoughts on who is to blame and the acclimatisation day on Monday. These girls have done this before. Whenever something isn’t right, they use their thinking time to blame somebody. Trouble is, that’s no way to solve problems so I cut them off mid-sentence. This is what we’re going to do…

Firstly, the training day on Monday was a half-distance walk, you carried light day packs, we provided supper which you ate indoors in a warm building with good showers and a warm bed for the night. There is no reason why you wouldn’t start Tuesday fully refreshed with dry kit. Let’s focus on what’s going to happen today.
The worst case scenario, I explained, is that you would reach the next checkpoint by 17.00. That would mean descending in darkness and we haven’t trained you in night navigation. So, I told the group that if they had not made the descent by 6pm, then they should make camp wherever they are. At the latest, within half an hour of sunset.  That does mean a stay on the Moors for the night, you are carrying all the right kit so there is nothing to stop you. I am not going to pull you out of expedition because of darkness. You can stay the night on the moors.

That’s okay because I will come to you from the north at sunset to find you. I can then check you out and fix up a water supply for breakfast. Even my colleague expressed concern at the idea of searching on the hills in the dark. We staff are trained in night navigation, well, Mr H, Mr K and I are. You will have your radio on by then anyway, as we’ve always told you to switch them from 4pm. They were terrified by the idea of staying on the moors. If necessary, I will bivvy somewhere nearby up there to keep you within earshot. Okay, so that’s the worse-case scenario.

The second worst scenario is that you arrive to leave open-access land but have ot navigate through woodland and some dark lanes after sunset. If this happens, I will come along and walk with you for the last few kilometers. I have a headtorch and a couple of bright hand-torches. You do have lights don’t you? They had.

I had their fullest attention throughout this briefing. A decision was quickly made and they grabbed their packs and got up.

They soon “got a wriggle on” and set off. As soon as it was obvious that they’d correctly chosen the right path at the nearby junction, we headed back to the minibus. i could imagine them walking at pace with the whites of their eyes visible. The drive is long round to the other side. But we parked up and started heading up. They responded on the radio very clearly- that means they are close. Actually, they were very close. The group not only passed the checkpoint but were on the edge of access land within 1 km of us! They really had got moving. All of them were dead pleased with themselves when they saw us.

There was no need to escort them to camp, over an hour remained of dusk. the camp is a nice one, it even has showers unlike the night before. Not that they could use them, not one of them had brought a towel.Kinder