Now in the routine. Wake by 5, pack the bag and roll up the tent. Fill water and fix breakfast (macaroni cheese from a dried packet).

All morning, watched over by the eye in the cliff.

Overall, this was a long steady descent. There were some highlights, a nice Boccu, ponds to swim in. But generally, with lowering altitude came higher temperatures.

The best bit was the rock pools on the river. Cascade de Punta Pinzuta. This was the only time I actually swam in a river on the Vignt.

Right at the end, there’s a spring (source) under shady trees. It was most refreshing, especially as there was a German couple doing the same thing. They went ahead and I stopped for another drink and to pee. Doing that, I disturbed a grass snake.

I need a rest day but the schedule doesn’t allow. Instead, I’ll take a short day. This is less than three hours. Paliri is a mountain refuge with fine views of the crags and sea.

As I was early, I got one of the best pitches nestled between rocks. Clothes were washed and I bought more fabulous cheese.

A nice, grassy climb to the Bocca in fine conditions. This is another short route of less than 4 hours.

The descent is the challenge today. It’s reputed to be one of the toughest on the 20. It poses real problems once I lost the markers.

I zigzagged and returned from dead ends. There were some very tricky down-scrambles and I got stuck on alder woods. Eventually, there was cow dung. Then another, so I followed them if cattle can get to this part, they can get out. Before long, a red/white marker! Phew.

Another storm. I got lucky when it hit me I was already having coffee in the Bergerie. The staff were delightful there.

The staff were lovely, very welcoming. I had something to eat and a nice coffee. That was before the thunder rumbled and the downpour began. I wrote in my journal and chatted to some French guys. When the rain got heavy, I drew. The bar owner became really interested. I showed her photos of my paintings on this phone. She was lovely about it, all interested.

A couple of Czech women arrived all wet through. One was a medic. And the pile of rucksacks got bigger and bigger.

Later, we were told we couldn’t stay any longer, there was some booking they needed space for. I got ready to go. But another opportunity arose. A guy in a delivery van offered a lift to Crocci. I said oui as did the French guys and the two Czech women. That 5 of us, not counting the driver. It was a very bumpy ride on the dirt roads that meander over these hills.

Crocci. It was still raining when we arrived. They have a sheltered area under canvas where some were hanging up kit to dry. I booked in and paid for supper and breakfast too. In the covered seating area, there was enough space to thread the poles of my tent ready to pitch. This way, I can set the tent without the inner getting wet. This worked (and some others copied the idea).