18th August 2022: The Storm.

The Cumbrian family set off a good hour before me. I was on-time though. Once ready, off I went onto the col (Boccu). Once on the Boccu, we go south passed trees onto a ridge. This is where the thunder developeda. I was cautious but several passed me more boldly. I asked “is it safe?” To a few who went by. “we’re going to see what it’s like and maybe come back” said one group. Another replied with “it’s a Corsica tradition” (that didn’t impress me). I remained hesitant.

Then the situation changed rapidly. Several groundstrikes hit summits across the valley very quickly. Immediately afterwards, it grew darker and the wind picked up. There were deep roars followed by strong gusts that smelt different. The air was different as the mood changed. Next came two merged groups descending quickly. I was back at the trees by now wriggling into my raincoat. They passed and a young French woman said “it’s too dangerous” and a guy – ” get away from the trees”. I was moving now. They said “don’t use your sticks” and “switch off your phone”!

I did both, and walked down crouched with my shortened poles held horizontally. Now, the sky turned blacker and angrier. It’s getting serious. The sky is very angry. It’s 8 and it’s as dark as 10pm. Those gusts were full strength pulling my rucksack over to the right. Rain beat down making the rocks you could trip harder to see. Against a blackened background, white tattered clouds raced upwards over the col just as I got off the crest of the col.

I got onto a track and found myself with a French guy (Paul). He shouted over the fury – “we stick together”. We both had.to cower to grab a rock each time the 2 second warning roared. That’s the time between the sound and the full blast would hit. The track was a river by now, overtopping our boots. Eventually, the hut was visible. Anotjer guy came out from underneath and shouted “give me your bag”! I wrestled it off and passed it as I dropped off my poles. Next I was under the refuge with about 10 others.

There was a wooden overhang above us as we sat on the ground. At least we were sheltered. Water ran in streams between the planks as I sat. One of the women told me to turn over my bag. It had the rain cover, but true – the water was pouring straight onto the back. I pulled over my pack to put on a down jacket and turned it rain cover upwards.

Then I sat and looked. Ten of us, all looking out. All shocked but the sky calming. I said, somewhat overcome “I’m having the time of my life“. One guy ventured out to check the building to see if it was really locked. It’s open! Quickly we all shuffled round the back and went inside. When I got in, most were stripping off to hang up clothes to dry. There were bunks in the darkness but I found a light.

Sheltering in the Refuge.
Something strange happened. Some had maps spread out on the table, some were drying clothes, otyher stended to the log burner and I was writing in my journal. Once sentence was not completed. There was a loud thumping bang, the door blew open on the stove and the room was filled with soot. We all dashed outside onto the balcony. It smelt of propane. There was no flash as the propane didn’t ignite. Inside there were pieces of metal is the tubes from the flue and the rains of a camping gas can. It was misshapen with the base blown off. You can see it in the photo).

In the Bergerie, most of us bought coffee. The sun came out and we had a plan. Rumours were that another storm would hit in the afternoon. We had a low level route, mostly in forest. Some were worried about falling trees but I thought it unlikely.