GR20 recce

30C, clear, light ne.
Visit the start of the GR20 on Corsica. Planning a potential hike on past of the main route. The paths appear clear and well marked. The heights are way above what I am used to- more like the alps.
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We swam in the shallow rapids and sprang over large rounded bolders. It seems easy from here. The choice of routes is wide, from 2 hours to over 6. There is an 18km route that that includes a 2300m summit and a long ridge walk. Could take ten hours., but the return is long and follows  easy valley terrain.
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Goodbye Scotland

19C, brighter further south.

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Here is the inevitable melancholy end of holiday shot. I always leave Scotland with a lump in my throat at the end of a visit. I get it in Wales, but this seems more precious.
I bought a book of walks in the southern highlands so maybe, a shorter visit is practical. The western highlands are just too far to drive for a short visit.

Beinn Eunaich

14°C, drizzly showers,
Last Monroe of the trip. Not a difficult climb by any means. It was interesting in a few specific ways.
1, vegetation- very mossy on the top: perhaps this top is almost always in cloud. The moss was just like the stuff I find in the gutters at home. It filled the gaps between bolders but did make them rather slippery. Although not as bad as black mosses, it still requires a change of approach.
2, Cruachan is a mountain that has been turned into a massive hydro-electric station. It can pump water up into the lake to use later in time of high demand on the national grid. More interestingly, it also draws water from Eunaich through tunnels. It can collect water directly from streams via small dams then channel them through the tunnels that run deep below the ground, right under the mountain. It was one of these tunnel entrances that fascinated me.

Tunnel entrance.
Tunnel entrance.

Tarkovsky would have recognised them. You’ll see what I mean when I can upload some pictures.

I found this place rather spooky. Looking into the tunnel is looking at an endless inky blackness that gurgles and thunders an deep mix of sounds that makes the mountain seem alive.

Through the gate...

Through the gate…

Oban

14°C heavy showers.

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Moved to escape the worst showers. They were really torrential in Fort William. As I write, I am sitting in my steamed up car looking upwind at a brighter sky. Supper is out there cooking on the stove.
There remains one full day before the long drive back home. How best to use it remains a pressing question. And as always on these trips, it all depends on the weather.
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This morning, we encountered two pigs rooting in the adjacent aspen wood. They have cleared the undergrowth except the bracken. It was funny watching them eat brambles. I couldn’t resist tweaking his nose. It’s hard and leathery- all the better for rooting with.
This evening, a different campsite has highland cattle to watch over us. They seem very calm but mildly curious.

Gleoraich

14°C, misty rain showers,
Summit– Gleoraich, 1035m.
After an encouraging start, visibility was touch and go. On we plodded at a moderate pace. I was wary because of the remote location and the low chance that anyone else was on the mountain. Footprints were visible, but they could easily be from yesterday.
The walk was great until if mizzle turned to driving rain at the middle col. I looked at possible escape routes but they looked steeper descents than continuing onward and over the next summit. So, that’s what we decided to do. Sooner too because Rosie was visibly shivering under her raincoat. A col is usually a windy place and by now the rain was driving.

Summit 2 – Spidean Mialach, 997m, rain, I mean RAIN!
The climb up was easy, only a shame that there was no visibility: there must be some grand views below. Descent was mostly down a grassy slope without too many bolders. Then Rosie let herself down- she disappeared! That is a stressful thing to happen. Then a hare ran past. She was chasing them, dammit! She must have been on one, later she chased after a stag, a Red Deer stag. Hopeless, it had several times her speed, many times her size, on familiar lane and sporting huge antlers. Silly girl.
When she’s sleeping tonight, I will know what is going through her mind when the twitching and woofling starts.

Before the incident

Wild camp: Loch Quoich

14°C, light cloud, SW.
Wildcamp near Sgurr Mhaoraich near Loch Quoich, a man-made reservoir. Though it’s very remote here, there is some through traffic to the tiny village Kinloch Hourn. I found a spot by a small Loch on the watershed. It’s a bit more windy here so there should be fewer midges. Anyway, it’s beautiful here with grassy covered hummocky moraines. The sort of place that makes your heart feel big and swollen inside your chest.
I can’t help but be a little nervous though; there is evidence of deer, some droppings are fairly fresh. And footprints.
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Later- encountered a small herd of red Deer while driving along the shore. About 4 hinds, and one stag. He ran along in front of the car and then jumped to the side. There he stood, only feet away, eyeing me up. We made eye contact. It felt like a while, but not long enough to get the camera out. The image will, nonetheless, stay with me- I am sure.

Creag Meagaidh.

16C, good start.
Creag Meagaidh is just one summit in a horseshoe of others well over 3,000ft. They form an undulating ridge with fascinating and varied views all round. Start at 9.30, but it still took me till 15.00 to reach the title summit. Okay, so I had to take a catnap on the plateau, but still…
That felt like a very hard day. I don’t know how it happened, but I normally don’t read the time very often. But when I did, it was quite a shock that it read 2pm and I had not wet eaten lunch. Terrible, no wonder that I felt so dreadful. Why not have a sensation of hunger to make it unnecessary?
Anyway, a great day only marred buy a tricky descent through a birch forest, the path was hidden, roots were a serious tripping hazard and the rocks mossy and slippery as ice.

Wild camp: Bohuntine

21°C, very wet morning, lovely later.
The bothy is out of reach, the river in spate, is impassable. I did try, but the brown water is too strong and deep in the middle.

Camp opposite the Bothy

Camp opposite the Bothy

It’s been a good day, all went to plan despite a rotten start. Rain poured all night, so it looked daunting. Once I got underway, the sky cleared and great photos presented themselves.
Today I did the half day walk intended- Bouhontine and the parallel roads. Guide-books always show photos of them them in winter but they are quite clear even now, all covered in grass, heather and bracken.
The best part of the walk was the secret valley behind Bouhontine hill.
As I write, I any lying in my tent, awaiting a good night’s sleep. Last time I wildcamped, I was spooked by a bellowing stag.
Wish me luck.

Buachaille Etive Mor

14°C, rain in afternoon.
Ridge walk with 4 summits over 3,000ft, though only 2 count as Monroes. The main feature was a snaking ridge which could have revealed breathtaking views if the cloud cleared. Only the first summit was clear and it stood over Rannock Moor with layers of mountains that ran on forever.

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So, today’s summits-
Stob Dearg 1022m
Stob Na Doire 1011m,
Stob Coire Altruim 941m,
Stob na Broige 956m.
The last three formed an undulating ridge which was easy to navigate, even in cloud.

Unmentionables

19C, heavy rain.
Collected some furniture from Bolton. There is the drawback of buying through ebay. The drive was not too far but it meant travelling to towns entirely unfamiliar. West Lancashire looks quite okay, not exactly “desolate” as the Tories think.

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The satnav did not, however, cope well with a closed road in the town. It took me over circuitous routes, each time, back to the road closure.
The guy who sold it explained that he’d moved house recently and that his wife used it to “keep her unmentionables”.