21°C, sunny with brisk SE.
Hungry after work
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Author Archives: essiep
I ran 5km
Warm 19°C, grey with a brisk southerly.
Quick 50k.
23°C, moderate NE breeze. Milky sun.
This could be my fastest ride of the year. Curious since I really struggled on the first ride when I got got home from Corsica.
Zinging
Been out for a blast after working on the house windows all morning. Glad to get my cycling legs back after the last few rides. I was expecting to be faster after the GR20. But no.
GR20: The reckoning
The expedition has left a legacy for me. In things like sleep habits. The best one is that I lost at least a stone in weight. That’s dead weight I put on after having COVID.
Tendonitis: this came on during the last few days. It doesn’t affect cycling so it may not actually be tendonitis but bursitis (supporting ligaments around the heel). I know from previously having it that healing takes a very long time, probably over a year. Currently I’m I’m often limping. This has been my concern as I was just getting into running.
Sleep habits: waking for long periods in the night.
Fitness: this is the best one, I’m on full form. Cycling is great, speedy and much fun. I had specific muscular strains during the trip. Two I remember most – around my hip during days 4 to 6, and between shoulders during the middle week. The latter was most noticeable on descents, maybe from the heavy pack and looking down for footing at the same time.
Bastia -> home
New moon 🌑
Starting in Camping E’spiranza. I visited the nearby beach and got a snack but wasn’t impressed. So headed back to find food at the campsite. That worked out well in the end. Another GR20er arrived having finished the same day. It cost her a ton to get the taxi from Conca to here (€300). I think she was a doctor, a gynaecologist.
The change at Geneva was stressful. There was a very long queue for bag drop, over 50′. Then straight to border control for another long queue that left only a few minutes before gates close. There were stressed staff whom I said ‘you’re doing a great job. She was delighted.
It was made bearable by a conversation with a change.young English woman who’d worked in Geneva as an Au Pair. And interesting cameo unfolded too. In another zigzag of the queue, a young family filed along with 2 small girls and wheelie bags. One of the kids was sitting/riding the smallest bag, being towed by dad. He shuffled forward and the kid toppled back. Mum dove forward with both palms upwards to catch her head before it slapped onto the stone floor. That was heroic! I was so impressed, I was more pressed than any famous sports goal. I said to the other “if I ever make a film, that scene will be in it!”.
I got moved into another queue for the Manchester flight which ended the conversation. Immediately, I was in another conversation with a young American couple. It’s good this! We were interrupted again by the need to move on to gates, time was pressing.
Another queue that looks long and a Vietnamese woman who looked very unsure whether she was in the right place. I did my best (she was).
After GR20, coming home
Conca to Fautea. I arrived in Conca, finished. The place was very quiet but the Gîte was open. I bought an iced tea and chatted to one of the staff. She suggested I hitch to Fautea and stop there the night. In the morning, I can catch the Blau Rapide bus to Bastia. A plan. She gave me some card and a marker pen to write a sign. Before I knew it, a couple picked me up and dropped me off on the right road (T10) in St Lucia.
There was already a young woman trying to hitch having recently finished herself. We teamed up (it’s easier if you look like a couple). 15mins in, a van pulled over and we were off. The driver, who had no English dropped me in Fautea Camping.
Fautea to Camping E’spiranza (Nr Bastia/Poreta Airport)
This was also an easy leg. I got coffee and bread from the camp shop (itself a delightful French tradition). The bus would stop outside the camp. I got out there in good time and found a hitch-hiker’s cardboard sign and tried it. Soon, a soft-top car pulled over with French youngsters in but they were only going to the next city. I decided to wait for the bus.
The bus was a proper coach and cost €20 to go to Casamozza. Ideal. I felt quite emotional leaving the Vignt and watching Corsica reel by. Vizzavona could be seen which bright back good memories as fter passing Corté in the distant west.
D12, GR20 (stage 16): Paliri to Conca (THE FINISH)
Now in the routine. Wake by 5, pack the bag and roll up the tent. Fill water and fix breakfast (macaroni cheese from a dried packet).
All morning, watched over by the eye in the cliff.
Overall, this was a long steady descent. There were some highlights, a nice Boccu, ponds to swim in. But generally, with lowering altitude came higher temperatures.
The best bit was the rock pools on the river. Cascade de Punta Pinzuta. This was the only time I actually swam in a river on the Vignt.
Right at the end, there’s a spring (source) under shady trees. It was most refreshing, especially as there was a German couple doing the same thing. They went ahead and I stopped for another drink and to pee. Doing that, I disturbed a grass snake.
D11, GR20 (stage 15b): Bavella village to Paliri (the short one).
I need a rest day but the schedule doesn’t allow. Instead, I’ll take a short day. This is less than three hours. Paliri is a mountain refuge with fine views of the crags and sea.
As I was early, I got one of the best pitches nestled between rocks. Clothes were washed and I bought more fabulous cheese.
D10 , GR20 (stage 15): Asinau to Bavella
A long slog through the forest low route. There were constant obstacles like fallen trees and streams to negotiate. I walked with the Czech women to begin with but they were faster and wanted the high variant route. There were Robles of thunder and long spells of light rain, so I decided against that.
I was so desperately tired on getting to the village. The last bit was a steep climb and some light scrambling , which I wasn’t in the mood for. Soon, on the col, there were signs of civilization, signposts and maintained land. I padded onto the road and looked for anywhere open.
There was a ‘refuge’, more a restaurant really. So I walked up and asked some smokers whether they spoke English. One guy did , really well. He offered a dorm, a meal and breakfast for €42. Amazing, I was delighted and relieved. The food portion was large as was was my appetite. I was given a starter, aain and a cheese board to finish (much of which became my picnic for tomorrow).
Micycle 