Bright sun and stiff breeze to start. Ended with rain set-in and building wind. 12C,
I lie alone in a bothy with roaring wind outside. Here’s what I have done:
Sgurr Rhuadh, a fairly remote munro that requires a long walk-in. Thus, I hatched a plan, make the summit from Torridon, and stop in a bothy. Then wake up and climb Maol Cheam Dearg, from there, return to Torridon.
I committed to the approach from the north because I stashed my heavier kit under an overhanging sandstone boulder. So my route had to be an out and back. So far so good.
Despite there being no indication on the map, or the guidebook, there actually is a decent path up the ridge to the summit. I found it on the way down.

Today’s walk was characterised by sharp, brittle clinking quartzite boulders. They are more slippery than they look. It’s not the quartzite at fault, it’s lichen. Oh, and frogs everywhere. Big ones, tiny ones but all with similar colouring. The colour scheme is the same idea, at some are more black than others. All keen to jump out of my way, all elbows and knees.
Eventually, I made it to the bothy. On the way stood an isolated sentinel stone, bright white with lichen. In that light, the owns in the structure could have been crafted by a 1960’s sculptor. It is far older than that. The bothy is an old crofters house, now owned by the estate and used as a mountain hut by the Mountain Bothy Association.

Nevertheless, it looks like a good place to make up ghost stories. A few trees have been planted nearby, and as I plodded to towards, I was convinced that they were people by the house.
The place was empty. In good condition outside, even the windows were tidy. Inside was all wood clad, in dark brown. These places are very sparse, Capel any furniture, not even bunks. You have to choose room and sleep on the floor. I picked upstairs facing the river.
Now to settle in and find how well I have packed.
Category Archives: Quality Mountain day
Beinn Alligin.
13°C, milky overcast and zero wind.
2 munros, Sgurr Mor, 986m, and Tom na Gruagaich, 922.m. The Horns (Na Rathaoan) is a Corbet.
Start 9.00 and back at camp at 19.15 including walk in and out time.
The horns of Beinn Alligin: started off at 9am, and walked to the start-point. It was a mistake, because the hour that took, was time off the summits.
Anyway.
The ‘Horns’ are pinnacles which are fun scrambling places. I went up the first one and part of the last one.

After these, the two Munros loom ahead. The are not that hard, it’s just something about their ‘mood’ that is intimidating. The whole mountain group is old red sandstone, a good snag for walking. The grip is always good and there are springs not far below. That was the only problem I had, the last summit was a much because of thirst. Oh, and the midges.
The still air was perfect for midges, even at 1000m altitude. I had to eat my food pacing about to stop them building up.
Maol Chean-Dearg orbital.
Improving weather, 14°C, light SW and sky breaking up during.
Small summit, Bealach an Rhuadh-Stac, 603m. 7.5 hours walk, probably 12miles.
It was only supposed to be a rest day jaunt, maybe 4 hours or so. It turned into seven. In short, I did an anticlockwise circuit around Maol Chean-Dearg.
This really is the heart of the Torridonian hinterland. More old red sandstone layer cakes and iced with quartzite caps. The high point, Bealach an Rhuadh-Stac was all crunchy white quartzite, hard and sharp.
The tracks were bereft of human footprints, but mountain-bike tracks were continuous. Incidentally, there were horse’s hoof marks and a dog’s paw prints too.
There is a bothy further south, which I may use if my plan works. I’d like to do a multi-day trek to take in a few munros and wild camp too. This looks like the place to do it!

The forecast looks great for tomorrow, but duller on Tuesday. So to make the best use of tomorrow, I hope to go up Ben Alligin to the west of here. That will be a full day with at least two munros and views of the Atlantic.
Today confirmed that my fitness is plenty, as long as I have enough food.
Ben Eighe, 3 munros.
13°C, 8 at the tops, cloud about 800m, lifting later to showers. Some sunny intervals.
Majestic B. Eighe is perhaps less intimidating than other Torridonian peaks, especially Laithach.
I started the climb at 10am and made the first summit at about 12.30. From there it’s possible to go in several directions. My route was West along a white quartz ridge.that drops you down to a bealach then onto a grassy flatter summit area that would be great for a wild camp. In fact, it is reminiscent of Craig Meagaidh over by Glen Spean.
There were plenty of alpine status in flower, just like the ones in my garden.
After the second, easy summit Munro, I considered scaling Sail Mhor, but after looking at the drop down to the bealach, I turned around. That descent was almost like one of the famous buttresses. There probably is a good route, but I feared running out of time.
Back then to the cairn and down to the bealach connecting Rhuadh stac Mor. The third and last munro was easy too. From here, you could see past me Skye in tho distance. In every direction, there were fantastic things to feast your eyes upon. East was vast expanses of space and quartzite scree. North, Slioch was just visible between rain showers.
Rain returned regularly today. That left sunny bits between and the light was magical.

Finally, the bit I always dread, the descent. Initially, a deep gully that looked much worse than it was. The technique was to use the sandstone blocks at the side like a staircase. Easy really. At the bottom of this stage, I could finally restock water. The most delicious spring water oozed out of the sandstone to the left.
Feeling replenished, I had the energy to tackle the descent quickly. Failing light was quite worrying by now. The views were not. Long shadows and crepuscular beams reached out from a sunset behind Ben Alligin. I can’t wait to see the photos properly
I finally reached the car at 21.50, nearly 12 hours after starting out.
To Torridon.
13C, low cloud but not much rain.
More driving: but yesterday was all driving too. To break it up, I hoped for a walk. AND I found one. It was near Loch Cluanie. There is a fine ridge that puts you between three Monroes. The name, Am Bathach. At the northern end is a bealach which looks like a good place to bivvy. There are banded rocks, probably gneiss, which appear to offer the right amount of shelter.
The ridge itself offered that effect where you can see the distant ground in you peripheral vision moving strangely behind the ground beneath your feet. You’d have to see it to know what I mean.
With all these choices, three summits and two escapes down, a decision had to be made.
Right at the last minute, I took the one recommended in my guide book.
Scotland has had unusual amounts of summer rain this year and much of it remains in the boggy ground. The return was very squelchy.
With a late start, I didn’t get down until 18.30 and faced a long drive to Torridon. So I ate at the Cluanie Inn. There I listened to an American girl talking to some drunk old gents about Ben Nevis. She must be planning to climb it tomorrow.
Descend from Yr Aran.
16°C, strong W, clouds from 600m.
Be warm and comfortable, those bits I got right. What spoilt my night’s sleep was the roar from the wind. At fairly regular intervals, the gusts would shake and whip the tarp. Awake at midnight, I pondered over- we’re a month away from mid-summer and it’s surprising how long light lingers, there was still a faint milky glow at midnight.
By morning, the weather was the same, so decamp.
The route: head west along the ridge and find am unnamed reentrant that forms a valley through complex moraines. Then ago to pass a disused quarry and mine. The only problem here was finding a wall crossing; the tall stone wall followed contours regardless of how steep. The walls were very tall, and not a flaw, gate or stile was to be seen.
In the end, I’m sorry to say, I climbed over. I chose a shorter section with a smaller drop on the other side. It worked, without even a pebble dislodged.
The quarry offered a good place to filter water and quench my thirst.
These places can be horrifying, especially those mine entrances. This one was just as ominous as any, dark into its endless throat. Inside was flooded from torrents dripping from above. There must be all posts of life forms in there, but it’s no place for human. Out of the derelict buildings was an easy path snaking towards Beddgelert, visible in the valley.
By the time I got to the bottom and the lake itself, my energy faded. Later I decided that on this trip, I hadn’t taken enough food.
Thoughts of a food stop at the excellent Caffi Gwynant drove me on.
Then I got there, the first thing that I noticed was the closed sign.
In conclusion: next time, take more food and ear plugs.
Under a tarp.
11°C, brisk W. Just below cloud base.
Searched for hours for somewhere to bed down. Now I’m on the Bwlch between Yr Aran and an unnamed hill to the east. Altitude about 500m. Inside the bivvy is warm and the tarp is flapping noisily in the wind. This was the most still pocket of air I could find.
The forecast suggests low chance of rain.
It’s a pity the tarp is such a bright green. I prefer something better camouflaged. It’s great to be able to peep out and see the mountains. There has been nobody on this side of Snowdon all day. Unless you want to count a noisy twin rotor military helicopter.
The Stone wall makes for a good wind break.
Ready with new kit.
Hiking season.
Very dry spring into summer this year.
To come: planning some trips to have some adventures and to build up my Dlog. I want to take the Hill and Moorland assessment early. Work wants me to do so too. For them, they can cut the cost of Silver and Gold award DofE. Currently, only the middle-class kids can afford them.
To broaden my horizon:
Wild camp in a bivvy,
Night walk,
Better my journey time ETA,
Get some more kit- bivvy bag, lighter roll mat, 65 litre rucksack, and a few little things. Finally, use the tarp.
I will aim to get assessed in October so our centre is ready for next season. We only need one qualified out of the six staff. It’s easier for me since home circumstances don’t prevent getting more Quality Mountain Days.
All along the Glyders.
12° to 7°C with moderate wind.
Up at 6 and set off for breakfast at the pinnacle cafe, Capel Curig. Excellent and at a good price too. Bought a pair of summer gloves for days like today. Nice in the valleys but cold aloft. The gloves I really liked were £85! No way!
From Capel Curig, I climbed onto the Glyders from the gentle eastern slope. Today was all about walking the length of the range and something good happened as I went along. At each summit, the cloud lifted or even cleared. By the by mid afternoon, the sun was out and the rocks were in sharp relief.
As often on the year’s first proper hike, the descent was quite hard and slow. I came down off the range behind Llyn Idwal. Place have made this ground far easier. Coming off Glyder Fawr was the worst bit with its loose shattered rock on a bed of soil on a steep slope.
I should have some good photos to show off when I get back.




