GR20, Stage 2.

34°C in the valley, 24 on tops.
Epic mountain day. Walked Stage 2 against the flow. Most people start in Calenzana and head south. Mine was a day walk so I didn’t have to consider following stages.
The guide book says this is the stage that most people who are going to drop out of the Randonne will do so. It’s the heat and the long distance between water supplies that finishes them off, it says.
I took nearly four litres in the pack, and not much else.
Parked at Refuge de Bonifatu 535m. The walk up to the refuge at Caruzzo is relatively easy, especially when in the cool shade of forest. The first sign of nearing the refuge is a bizarre scaffold structure perched on a rock: a helipad.

From Col to Col.: First stop after the refuge was the Bocca Innomidata (1865m). Here the view of the most daunting section was laid out in front. A large steep sided bowl with a ring of pinnacles north and west. Each on their own looked fearsome, but to face a ring like teeth round this devilish jaw. If you stare, a few fawn threads that mark the path can be seen. Between them lay black charred canines.
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Drinking water: I had enough but other people did not. With 3 litres, I could get to the spring in 3 km.Half way round the circuit, I met a couple of older french guys who were struggling a bit. One had an injury and the other had split his bottle and lost his water. He was the second person with the same problem today. The moral is; never use a disposable mineral water bottle.
Help! I need a geologist: intrusive landforms. What strange shapes these rocks made. The rocks are various types of granite. That’s an intrusive silicate magma.
My big question: are there surfaces like casts from a mold made by over lying rocks that have since eroded away?
I am used to looking for glacial relics, but here there is nothing to support such an idea.
Looking at the unfolding land, you can imagine thick magma being pushed into lower layers. In some places, there are bubbles big hooting to push your fist in. In other places, you could get a VW Beetle into the bubble.
There was little of the frost shattering that I’m used to seeing in upland UK. Strange, enchanting and always – sublime.
Finally start the descent. The pale green marking on the map and contours makes this look easy enough. Firstly, some big blocks to clamber over. The blocks didn’t really relent down the valley.
If you look closely enough at the map, a tiny droplet shape marks the spring. On the ground it was tiny too, just a black plastic pipe in a stone. A steady flow of water provides delicious refreshment. I took on another 2 litres for my rack.
This part of the walk took far longer than I expected, probably over 2 hours. That was frustrating, despite the unexpectedly smooth granite valley walls.
Aspen and boar;
After a short rise, a new valley. This one had aspen trees and was thinner. Between the clearings, the refuge started to appear. This snapped and a rush. Wild boar scattered away from my footsteps. There’s one to tick off- scare wild boar.
Descent into the dark forest: stopped briefly at Refuge Ortu di a Pobbu for coffee and mall loaf. Then the long walk down to the car. Light failed about half way and progress became frustratingly slow with owly a head torch to pick out tripping hazards.
Back at the car by 22.30.

Scandola

30°C, light wind and fierce sun. Some humidity.
Boat tour to Scandola. It’s a Unesco World Heritage Site. In other words- a nature reserve. Though the sea state was nothing remarkable, quite a few tourists were sea-sick, including some from my party. Some boats seem to do that.
The geology caught my attention most, is red granite with porphyry texture. It has eroded into roundish doughy forms. You can imagine how the viscous intrusion pushed and glooped deep beneath. The texture is just as interesting: porphyry cools twice, giving big crystals in a finer matrix. Here it’s pink, almost the colour of hematite.

Suitcase.

34°C, very hot, wind has dropped. No cloud.
Your immune system is like airport security. If they find the slightest irregularity in your baggage, then they empty out your suitcase without a second’s thought.
That’s how my night has been. Maybe it was something I ate, or more likely – drank. I did stop by a roadside hut for fruit on the bike. The peaches were lovely, blood red and all juice. But what if the guy who served me hadn’t washed his hands?
In this heat, every drink stop is vital. At Montmaggiore, there is a standpipe by the main church. But, was it clean? I had to drink, no choice.

Corsica ride 2.

I rode BTwin with MapMyRide+! Distance: 31.74mi, time: 02:44:56, pace: 5:12min/mi, speed: 11.55mi/h.
http://mapmyride.com/workout/1092923395
100times better.: enough breakfast, water and before the full heat of the day. Also, with a little fiddling with the gear adjuster screws, the bike offered all gear ratios. No need to feel the shame from getting off and walking the steepest hills. The lowest ratio is 32x 28, just right for this mountainous island.

BTwin in Corsica:1

I rode BTwin with MapMyRide+! Distance: 22.68mi, time: 02:05:10, pace: 5:31min/mi, speed: 10.87mi/h.
http://mapmyride.com/workout/1091448741
Tough ride, tougher than it should have been, even considering the steep hills and tremendous heat.
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Oh, and the very strong wind.
I felt terrible, maybe because I had too little breakfast. Also, this bike only has one bottle cage, so dehydration was a serious problem. In a few hours ride, I drank four bottles of water.
The return route was over familiar ground, but surfaces were rough.
The funniest bit was the flock of sheep being herded across the road. They were funny looking things, skinny legs and a very narrow snout. One was limping badly.

A conclusion in Wales.

16°C, woke to rain, brighter by lunch.
It’s a shame to pack the tent away wet. Once decamped, a visit to Caffi Gwynant is the obvious thing to do.
As I have discussed here before,  I have a fascination for the Migneint. It’s a plateau (which was the centre of an ice sheet in glacial times). A rolling area of grasslands cut by meandering rivers. Last June, I checked out the start of a walk to the bothy near Arenig Fach.
The route started tricky, but is easy to navigate later. Strangely, the marked footpath deviates from the track on the map, but nothing was apparent on the ground. Simply walk along the track then!

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This a fairly high altitude area, though it doesn’t look like that while there. These hills are between 400-500m, as high as the ridge I used for the last wild-camp. One clue was the fresh, cooler air.

The bothy was fairly typical, perhaps a little rougher than others. There was a newspaper from the 5th June on the table. The place was dirty and had few sleeping areas. Outside, the sides obviously used it for shelter although the door was well barricaded against them.
Not a very inviting place to stay, I’d prefer a tent. However, if you want a bad weather shelter, or you’re travelling light, this could be a solution. I would clean the place first thought.

Descend from Yr Aran.

16°C, strong W, clouds from 600m.
Be warm and comfortable, those bits I got right. What spoilt my night’s sleep was the roar from the wind. At fairly regular intervals, the gusts would shake and whip the tarp. Awake at midnight, I pondered over- we’re a month away from mid-summer and it’s surprising how long light lingers, there was still a faint milky glow at midnight.
By morning, the weather was the same, so decamp.
The route: head west along the ridge and find am unnamed reentrant that forms a valley  through complex moraines. Then ago to pass a disused quarry and mine. The only problem here was finding a wall crossing; the tall stone wall followed contours regardless of how steep. The walls were very tall, and not a flaw, gate or stile was to be seen.
In the end, I’m sorry to say, I climbed over. I chose a shorter section with a smaller drop on the other side. It worked, without even a pebble dislodged.

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The quarry offered a good place to filter water and quench my thirst.
These places can be horrifying, especially those mine entrances. This one was just as ominous as any, dark into its endless throat. Inside was flooded from torrents dripping from above. There must be all posts of life forms in there, but it’s no place for human. Out of the derelict buildings was an easy path snaking towards Beddgelert, visible in the valley.
By the time I got to the bottom and the lake itself, my energy faded. Later I decided that on this trip, I hadn’t taken enough food.
Thoughts of a food stop at the excellent Caffi Gwynant drove me on.
Then I got there, the first thing that I noticed was the closed sign.

In conclusion: next time, take more food and ear plugs.

Under a tarp.

11°C, brisk W. Just below cloud base.
Searched for hours for somewhere to bed down. Now I’m on the Bwlch between Yr Aran and an unnamed hill to the east. Altitude about 500m. Inside the bivvy is warm and the tarp is flapping noisily in the wind. This was the most still pocket of air I could find.
The forecast suggests low chance of rain.
It’s a pity the tarp is such a bright green. I prefer something better camouflaged. It’s great to be able to peep out and see the mountains. There has been nobody on this side of Snowdon all day. Unless you want to count a noisy twin rotor military helicopter.

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The Stone wall makes for a good wind break.

Snowdon, arrived.

17°C, Clear with light W.
Betws-y-Coed: used my DofE discount card to buy some kit. Firstly, an expedition rucksack. After trying on many, I got the Lowe Alpine 65 litre. It seemed to fit the best. Next, a Rab bivvy bag. I’m looking forward to trying that one out. It’s quite roomy inside, I know because I climbed inside it tonight in the safely of my tent. The length is 7ft which should mean it puts no pressure on the sleeping bag thus reducing its warmth.
Walk up some of the Watkins path. Set off at 20.00 and got up to the 400m amounts at the quarry beyond the Gladstone Rock. Snowdon was all quiet and peaceful, barely anybody was seen. The natural beauty of this place was all there, plain to see.

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Watkins Path.

This time of year, there is not any real need for lights, even at 10pm, but to be on the safe side, I did. This is not the time to stumble.