Snowdon, and a cuppa.

11°C, rain easing, but when you start to relax, down it comes.
Up early, woken by cuckoos. Put the tent away while slightly drier, but it’s still drenched.
The car tyre is flat after last night’s re-inflation. It didn’t hold. I decided to swap in the spare after my morning espresso.
I met up with the others, half an hour late and threw my kit on. We started at about 8.15.
With speed we headed off. I don’t think I’ve been this way, it’s a nice enough route. Hill fog was dense above 500m and rain was in future force by the summit. 1h 58 min. got us there.
We decided to stop in the cafe. I have never been inside the new place. Strange, it wasn’t packed out. Did the weather put some off?
I was noticeably slower on the descent. As always, I’m less confident coming down and feel the need for more certainty on each foot fall.
Round trip, 3h40 roughly. Okay considering kid heavy rain and strong winds. Actually, the wind wasn’t much of a problem.

Crafllyn site: Rhyd Ddu

16°C, clouding over. Rain in the west.
Heading for Snowden. Left work early and aiming for a camp in the village. The plan is to meet Chris and Em in the early morning to climb Snowdon. We’re taking a route from the west to use it out.
I decided to head out tonight so I have no long drive early in the morning.
This is all training for the 3-Peaks next week. Therefore, we should make good speed.
Made camp. Ate in the pub in RD, fantastic food, better than many restaurants.
The forecast now says this heavy rain will continue until midday tomorrow. Then it dries for a few days.
The car has a puncture.

Snowdon, arrived.

17°C, Clear with light W.
Betws-y-Coed: used my DofE discount card to buy some kit. Firstly, an expedition rucksack. After trying on many, I got the Lowe Alpine 65 litre. It seemed to fit the best. Next, a Rab bivvy bag. I’m looking forward to trying that one out. It’s quite roomy inside, I know because I climbed inside it tonight in the safely of my tent. The length is 7ft which should mean it puts no pressure on the sleeping bag thus reducing its warmth.
Walk up some of the Watkins path. Set off at 20.00 and got up to the 400m amounts at the quarry beyond the Gladstone Rock. Snowdon was all quiet and peaceful, barely anybody was seen. The natural beauty of this place was all there, plain to see.

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Watkins Path.

This time of year, there is not any real need for lights, even at 10pm, but to be on the safe side, I did. This is not the time to stumble.

Snow on Snowdon

+5° @ ground, -6° at summit.
Started this morning not sure whether I would attempt the summit. So we started off, after a lengthy breakfast, at 11.30. At each stage I was encouraged by conditions. So up we went.
The landscape on the ridge another world, only a year after I started to feel jaded by busy Snowdon. On the upper reaches, towards the summit, the snow changed. It became harder to dig toes in to get a foothold, and crampon marks became common.
The ice became difficult only at the summit cafe and the trig point. I decided against a descent the same way, too risky. The Snowdon Ranger path is far easier, but took up off the mountain on the wrong side.
We arrived in Rhyd Ddu at about 6 after a diversion across moor-land. That left up with a long walk along roads, 7 miles in all. Back at camp at 9.30.
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What does this all mean? We visited another country, another world. Ice sculpted rocks poked out threatening.
We walked long and hard, but my stamina did not lessen. Poor Rosie struggled in the last 5 miles, she’s getting older but perhaps needed another feed. This morning, I have stiff legs, but no blisters, no injuries. I feel strong.

Gwynant morning.

-3°C, clear, calm.

Coldest morning that I have ever woken to in a tent. The water bladder is a slush-puppy inside and the tap is frozen. I cleared it but it’s glazed over again now. However, it’s a dazzling beautiful morning and I am comfortable in my quilted coat and ski salopettes. It’s dangerous on the upper slopes of Snowdon, so probably best to walk on the Molwynion just south of here. The ground should be less marshy between snow fields.image

Nant Gwynant

upto 21°C, still & no cloud

Just got back. It was great, but I’ve brought a cold with me. It’s been strange, it came on tentatively on the drive there. But it held back for quite a few days, drawing my strength in the background while I climbed mountains. Now I’m all bunged up and have gone to bed with a roll of tissue paper. No, Wait! that sounds terrible.

Another interesting physical process can be noticed when falling asleep. As you drift away in a campsite, sometimes you snap back. When you do, the first thing that snaps back into focus is the sound of the river (on the opposite edge of the camp). It jumps into your consciousness almost as if someone has thrown a switch. This can happen repeatedly until you finally do fall asleep.

Anyway, where have I been?

  1. Rhinogs: walked up Rhinog Fawr, clear & cold.
  2. Nant Gwynant, Yr Aran (the summit cleared, much to my surprise)
  3. Nant Gwynant: Climbed Y Llewedd (on the Snowdon horseshoe)
  4. Nant Gwynant: Moel Siabod– near Capel Curig. A fine mountain with an ice scarred east face hidden by soft grassy slopes to the North & west.

Yr Wyddfa, Carneddeau & Rhinoggs

14-19°C, Sunburn, rain, fog & gales


Sunday, Yr Wyddfa: (Mt Snowdon, 1085m) and Yr Aran (745m): Got up when I woke (5am), then drove to The western slopes of Mt Snowdon. Started the climb at 10.30. Parked at Ryd Ddu and took the route up to Yr Aran. Pure blue skies and light winds. This day turned into a 10 hour hike.I came down from Yr Aran to the Watkin path and then climbed Snowdon. The Summit was too crowded to stay more than a few minutes, so then headed down the Snowdon Ranger track. After the drive to Wales, this was an additional 10 hour hike, I slept well that night after hotel troubles were solved.
So now I have done all of the major ascent routes of Snowdon. Those remaining are proper scrambles, but I can’t take Rosie on terrain like those.

Monday: Southern Carneddeau: A day of 3 summits> Penyr Ole Wen (978m), along the ridge to Carnedd Dafyd (1044m)> Carnedd Llewellyn (1064m)
This was largely straight-forward, especially after I met a couple of teachers from Tamworth who were experts on that route. The panorama at the top was …. <insert flowery words here>.
Near the rockwalls  of Craig Yr Isfa was a really tricky descent. Getting Rosie down here was interesting. I made a mental note to get her a harness, the sort you can lift a dog with. Perhaps a rope too; just in case the worst happens and we get stuck. Agile though she is, her claws face backwards so are not so great when facing a descending slope . I went ahead, turned and braced with arms apart to let her slide into my grasp. That’s real trust.
Tuesday, a day on the beach at Harlech & Llandanwg with Jo. A little chilly, but kept warm with cups of tea and hilarious banter. We saw Rosie watching the local Gwlffreandded; she’s obsessed!
Wednesday: Rhinogg Hills. A wet stormy day with strong westerly winds. Took the Roman steps route up from Cwm Bychan. As we got into the clouds, the rain stopped and visibility remained at about 30 meters. The steps were more a cascade of small waterfalls; I pictured Roman centurians in their Jesus-sandals. The stones were reasonably regular, smooth and rather slimy in places. Grip was poor. Rosie saw me fall once and came over concerned and licked my face. The perfect travelling companion; she makes other dogs look rubbish.
Finding lakes along the route as they slowly materialised out of the mist was a very impressive moment each time. You have to work out your position on the map with a compass direction matched against the curve of the lake-side. The water rippled softly below the grainy clouds that moved besides and through us. Both air and water had the same silvery colour so coming across lakewater each time was a shock. Unexpected and reassuring- the map reading was working. We then sloshed our way though rocks and black marshy peaty land. Stepping on innocuous patches of sodden grass often plunged your foot into flowing clean water. Another great day.

 I wish I could have stayed another few days, there is so much more to do and see. In the meantime, I am going to look seriously into kitting out with camping gear. Late hotel breakfasts were a bind, sometimes I didn’t finish eating until 9. I wake at six.