Tag Archives: Wales

This time last year…

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10°C, rain

This time last year I camped in the Rhinogydd range. This year it’s unlikely that I will camp during this Easter break. A week of rain, sun and heavy showers is forecast. This morning I took Rosie to the local woods for a run and it was gorgeous, the rain didn’t matter. In practice, the rain brought out all those smells that subliminally speak of spring. The problem arises when you are cooking on a stove outside your tent. Rain gets through to your skin and it becomes very difficult to keep warm. Campsites that offer log burners are best at these times. I can but dream of Llyn Gwynant.

Plans aren’t working out. The original idea included a visit to Betwys-y-Coed to get some new hiking gear. My hiking coat is, strictly speaking, a size too small (but then most of my clothes are a bit too small). I knew it at the time but it was in a sale and I had no idea how much I would come to use it. If I knew, I would have paid the extra and got something that fitted well and was probably a better, more breathable fabric. Goretex is the one to look for. Last week I tried on a few coats in Cotswold, the outdoor shop. Berghaus is still the best one, only because the cut is long and so fits my proportions better.

Yr Wyddfa, Carneddeau & Rhinoggs

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14-19°C, Sunburn, rain, fog & gales

Sunday, Yr Wyddfa: (Mt Snowdon, 1085m) and Yr Aran (745m): Got up when I woke (5am), then drove to The western slopes of Mt Snowdon. Started the climb at 10.30. Parked at Ryd Ddu and took the route up to Yr Aran. Pure blue skies and light winds. This day turned into a 10 hour hike.I came down from Yr Aran to the Watkin path and then climbed Snowdon. The Summit was too crowded to stay more than a few minutes, so then headed down the Snowdon Ranger track. After the drive to Wales, this was an additional 10 hour hike, I slept well that night after hotel troubles were solved.
So now I have done all of the major ascent routes of Snowdon. Those remaining are proper scrambles, but I can’t take Rosie on terrain like those.

Monday: Southern Carneddeau: A day of 3 summits> Penyr Ole Wen (978m), along the ridge to Carnedd Dafyd (1044m)> Carnedd Llewellyn (1064m)
This was largely straight-forward, especially after I met a couple of teachers from Tamworth who were experts on that route. The panorama at the top was …. <insert flowery words here>.
Near the rockwalls  of Craig Yr Isfa was a really tricky descent. Getting Rosie down here was interesting. I made a mental note to get her a harness, the sort you can lift a dog with. Perhaps a rope too; just in case the worst happens and we get stuck. Agile though she is, her claws face backwards so are not so great when facing a descending slope . I went ahead, turned and braced with arms apart to let her slide into my grasp. That’s real trust.
Tuesday, a day on the beach at Harlech & Llandanwg with Jo. A little chilly, but kept warm with cups of tea and hilarious banter. We saw Rosie watching the local Gwlffreandded; she’s obsessed!
Wednesday: Rhinogg Hills. A wet stormy day with strong westerly winds. Took the Roman steps route up from Cwm Bychan. As we got into the clouds, the rain stopped and visibility remained at about 30 meters. The steps were more a cascade of small waterfalls; I pictured Roman centurians in their Jesus-sandals. The stones were reasonably regular, smooth and rather slimy in places. Grip was poor. Rosie saw me fall once and came over concerned and licked my face. The perfect travelling companion; she makes other dogs look rubbish.
Finding lakes along the route as they slowly materialised out of the mist was a very impressive moment each time. You have to work out your position on the map with a compass direction matched against the curve of the lake-side. The water rippled softly below the grainy clouds that moved besides and through us. Both air and water had the same silvery colour so coming across lakewater each time was a shock. Unexpected and reassuring- the map reading was working. We then sloshed our way though rocks and black marshy peaty land. Stepping on innocuous patches of sodden grass often plunged your foot into flowing clean water. Another great day.

 I wish I could have stayed another few days, there is so much more to do and see. In the meantime, I am going to look seriously into kitting out with camping gear. Late hotel breakfasts were a bind, sometimes I didn’t finish eating until 9. I wake at six.