Plas-y-Brenin 3

13°C, brisk SW, sunny and cloud building later.
Great conditions, though the wind is strong with attendant wind-chill. Bright sun that needs sun-block.

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Photo: very early sun on the Snowdon Horseshoe.
Today’s route we planned ourselves.
Our route started in a wooded horseshoe valley on the edge of the Molwynion. Out of the trees, we walked in strong sunshine and strong wind. I need to re-think clothing for these days, perhaps a thin windproof and gilet combination.
Navigation used subtle amounts features which honed our techniques. I got the feeling that Helen, the instructor, was becoming confident in us. Sometimes she passed over checking my position, but I knew where we were.
On return to the bus, I was feeling the cumulative lack of sleep. Debrief was rousing for me though. I am thrilled by the prospect of 20 more Quality Hill days and some at night. It was even suggested that I consider Mountain Leader Award.
note for future reference: I packed 2 1/2 litres of water and drank 2/3 of it. The backpack weighed 20 kilos (a 40 litre bag). Now I have a water filter, I should be able to pack a 60 litre bag at the same weight.

Plas-y-Brenin 2

11°C, brisk NE, rain set in all day.

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Day Two, trying not to feel like a cheat, I have walked in this area before. It’s that forgotten region between the Arenig and Ffestiniog.
Although light rain and reduced visibility dominated the day, we used the time to read the land and match with contours. Each of the six of us were given a short leg and others had to identify where we got to. Points of interest were pre-industrial settlements or simply, contour rings.
Lunch at a shooting hut.
A very good day with Mike, an expert on the local wildlife. We found outcrops of pyroclastic flows. Also there was evidence of the woodland character that is suppressed by sheep farming there.

Easter.

11°C, brisk westerly carrying showers.
Plans: may be abandoned for this coming week.
Abandoned so far:
Ride to work on the cross bike and return along canals. Felt ill yesterday.
CX ride to Fradley junction. Same.
Camping in Wales next week, bad weather forecast.
Maybe go to Castleton instead, and go up Kinderscout.

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Beinn Eighe and the 3 buttresses

Saturday, endless showers, 14C, strong SW.
Bad weather plus a desire to walk my last day means a valley hike. I went around the back of Liathach and snaked around the back of Beinn Eighe. The idea was to visit the corrie where the 3 buttresses are.
These hills are also sandstone of the same type as further north. It is layered in steps and terraces. Waterfalls usually fall in stages too. The one at the mouth of the corrie was swept back by the very strong wind. A smaller one further up didn’t fall at all sometimes. The water simply blasted into the air above.

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I had to crouch behind an erratic to get out of that wind and eat my snack. The socks I sat on were polished and scarred with striations. Strong wind sprayed water backwards from the waterfall as I said. That made the gusts even colder.
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I stayed there for a while, ate sandwiches and looked upon the scene. The cliffs had deep scars with conical landslides at the base of each.
The effects of cold air, spray and rain ended my time there. You can find photos mostly taken on the descent on my Flickr site. Showers became more frequent and heavier. Patches of sun did break through the drizzle. The stage was set for a meteorological special effect: low down a clear rainbow rose before the valley side.

Coffee, had a success with an idea taken from the German teenagers in Achmelvich the other day. I got this coffee maker for £8 that works on a gas stove.

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Good coffee.

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Suilven, the north approach.

Thur,16C, light wind and breaks in the cloud mostly midday.
This very long day started at 9.30 with the three hour walkin through the Glencanisp estate. Most of the track is easy up to the turn. After, it’s very boggy until the lowest slopes. Then it was steep, very steep. More than 1 in 1 until the bealach.

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Suilvan looming

About this time, breaks in the cloud appeared, very encouraging.
Walking back felt hard, my feet hurt from three days of long walks with wet boots and socks. Long walks like these always run down my water supply. I had about four miles to go when the water bladder ran out. The day finished well, firstly the Glencanisp estate has spring water on offer for walkers from an outside tap. Then,
Lochinver has a very nice pie shop which does take-aways. The perfect way to conclude an exhausting day.
Tomorrow I head for Torridon.

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Kirkaig Falls.

16C, fewer showers, lighter sky.
Morning, climbed the cliffs near Achmelvich in fresher sky with sun attempting to break to break through. I heard Shearwaters before I saw them skimming the wave tops. Still no sign of the Divers. Shearwaters are charming enough, the sound they make is so odd.
Afternoon, walked up from Inverkirkaig to The Falls Of Kirkaig. This walk had a dual purpose: one to see the falls and the other, to check the last part of the route for tomorrow.
The last quarter could be one walked in the dark if this went wrong. It’s good to get some familiarity. There was a problem though. On the north-west shore of Fionn Loch there is a gap by Loch Uidh na Ceardaich where the path runs. Except it didn’t.

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The water was so deep that the path was under 2 or 3 feet of water. I tried to wade in after stripping off to my underwear. Its was strange to look down and see my legs an orange colour. The water had so much peat that it looked like beer.
I backed off as I was not happy to try this in bare feet. I have to decide whether I make two crossings or carry my load all in one. Two crossings means three if you count the return to collect the second load. What if I take the lot in one, and I fall in- my camera and phone would be destroyed.
Sleep on it.

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Hiding from Bertha.

13C, light wind, majour storm building.
Found the last bed & breakfast in Ullapool. Scary are the warnings about this remnant of hurricane Berthe. My lit is all wet and quite smelly so I can get the laundry done in the morning.
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This place feels like an outpost, there are a lot of tourists though.
The landlord here has warned me about the midges, they will be out in force on the marshy lead-in to Sulvain.
I can’t really visualise the approach, but here there is a feeling of big open sky. Not like Glen Coe where the surrounding mountains loom ominously, almost threatening.

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Benighted.

16C, showers to start, cleared late afternoon.
Long long day. It wasn’t meant to be, but the walk time was nearly doubled. Perhaps it was the conditions. There was water everywhere. Every dip, every footprint was a puddle. Any soil was a bog and the whole effect was to make all surfaces very slippery.
The skies cleared and the highlands shone in their full glory.

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Two Monroes in today’s walk. Sgurr na h-Ulaidh and along the same ridge- Stob an Fhuarain. Descent was eastwards but there were two very difficult rock walls to cover. There was no way around, so I took it slowly. This is not the place to have an accident. Nobody was within miles and no phone signal.
As it was, the final glen was boggy and rocks were hidden in the long grass. That made going very slow. Darkness fell with about an hour to go and the final river crossing was not obvious.
In the end, I came across a track that led me to walk through somebody’s garden. Hope view didn’t notice me with my head torch.
Back at camp, the block said 11.30 pm.
The best mountain days!
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Purposeless Walking

15ºC, light wind but heavy rains.

The BBC have posted a Magazine article that hits the spot. It’s worth sharing here because i can relate to it so well. I don’t  go out in all night walks, but do value the very long outing. Also it’s important to ignore your phone and don’t listen to music as you go.

A the heart of this for me is thinking time. The effect is the same while cycling alone, it’s time to chew over thoughts in your head as the miles wheel by.

Do take the time to read it.